Delhi, Bharatpur and Orchha........
So here we are once again in busy Delhi. After the
usual boring claustrophobic flight from Europe.
When I finally got my legs straightened again, it
struck me how it must feel in one of those livestock
transporters!!
After completing the immigration formalities and a
lengthy worried wait for Ilse's pack, we emerged into
the musty odour of Delhi. Our man from the Star Palace
was waiting as arranged. We exchanged pleasantries,
chucked our packs in the taxi and set of into the
melee.
Driving through Delhi can be likened to the bumper
cars at a fair, except there are a lot less cars at a
fair and you don't have the emissions!!! After a
half-hour ride of exchanged looks and sweaty palms we
finally arrived at our hotel of choice. An hour later
we were fast asleep, one of the beauties of an Airport
pick-up!
The following day we awoke late and eagerly set of to
the main bazaar to appraise this years changes.
The Main bazaar has seen real metamorphosis in the
years we have been coming to India. Gone are the rows
of shops selling tie-dye and kitsch. These have in the
main been replaced by the same merchants selling every
fake brand name you can think of. From bags to
tracksuits and polo shirts, you will find all the big
names. Adidas, Nike, Reebok, Calvin Klein. The quality
of these items is dubious to say the least, as I found
out after purchasing a small Reebok rucksack, the
thing lasted fully one and a half hours before falling
to bits, beware!!
Something unchanged is the parade of humanity. Touts,
beggars wide-eyed western students lugging their shiny
new overweight packs. Of course you'll find the
Kashmiri touts expounding their theories on how safe
Kashmir really is, add to this the fortune tellers
conmen and spaced out hippies and you have the essence
of "the paharganj!!"
Sadly with the advent of neon signs and formica the
place is slowly losing it's timeless charm. All is not
lost though, choose any side alley for a glimpse of
the paharganj of old, grubby Chai wallahs serving chai
from even grubbier cups, the next generation of India
cricketers already in their own mid playing at The
Eden garden! and the farting belching Baja scooters
slaloming their way through the narrow side streets.
After a few days cruising the bazaar, filling up on
the wonderful array of snacks on offer there and
picking up the all essentials needed on a long trip
through India, it was time to leave smoggy bustling
Delhi. The next stage would be our first encounter
with the mighty Indian Railways, on the way to the
bird Sanctuary at Bharatpur. Our first train journey,
always something to look forward to!!
The following afternoon, after a leisurely breakfast
discussing the pros and cons of various destinations
with some first timers in India, we made our way to
the huge New Delhi train station.
Picking your way through the gauntlet of rickshaw
drivers and self appointed "tourist guides" is always
a trying experience and this time was no different.
"Rickshaw sir?" "Which train sir?" all the usual
patter.
We also encountered a new slant on the many ploys used
to get you into the travel agents that line the street
opposite the station.
The tout who approached us had shrewdly noticed that
our train hadn't appeared on the departure/platform
board. Seeing that we were a bit perplexed by this he
confidently announced "train 4 hours delayed, you come
reservation office " Pointing to the private agencies
opposite. This of course gave the game away and after
checking further, his line proved to be just what we
thought,bullshit. We made our feelings felt to the
tout and leaving him grappling for words we made our
way to the designated platform where our train
departed right on time!! another lesson learned.
Seated in our reserved seats we chugged our way
through the Delhi suburbs. An hour later we left the
half built brick houses and shanties of Delhi
Now we were in timeless India, the gold and green
fields, populated by the colourful farming folk eking
out a living among the centuries old irrigation
ditches, a scene ubiquitous on the Gangatic plains of
northern India.
At first we were alone in our little compartment, but
as the scenery fled past we were joined by Delhi
office workers making their way home after another day
in the rat race.
A little later we were joined by another white face .
It transpired that she was a Australian student of
medicine working in a Delhi hospital as part of her
studies and was also going to Bharatpur.
The office workers filtered away and were replaced by
fresh faced young students going back to their
outlying homes. After a while the bravest started
firing questions at us, based on the groups notions of
life in the west." do you respect the English queen,
she killed Diana no?" "Why do you marry seven times in
your country?" "Do you like Kylie Minogue?" "How is
David Beckham?"
They were also concerned that we were travelling in
second class as they considered this dangerous for
tourists!
We answered all their questions to the best of our
ability and they were positively devastated to here
the Kylie was at least 33 years of age.
Shortly afterwards with a solemn handshake they also
departed to their village lives.
Upon our arrival in Bharatpur it was apparent that the
locals were a honest, friendly bunch. Our rickshaw
wallah bore testament to this, quoting the correct
fare to our chosen hotel without any haggling!!
Our hotel of choice was the Park View. Soon we were
settled in a comfy, spacious room with hot water and a
thick mattress, a god send in budget hotels!
Anil the owner who likes to be called A.K. is a
friendly warm hearted guy, who has put a lot of
thought in into providing the creature comforts for
his guests. He is also a mean cook, serving up some of
the best North Indian food we've taste in a long time!
A fact he is justifiably proud of.
The following morning after a great night sleep and a
wonderful bhaji we set off with our new found doctor
friend for Fatehpur Sikri the grand mosque and palace
built by the Moghul ruler, Akbar.
A short bus journey and we were standing outside the
huge ornate gate of the mosque, with our guide Babu.
We paid our 260rps (tourist only price) and wondered
around the wonderfully preserved palace. The site is
split into two part the palace grounds and the Mosque
built on the site of the suffi who so touched Akbar by
giving him the blessing of his first child!!
Both are built of local red sandstone and look like
they were built 10 years ago instead of their actuall
470 years!
Instead of the full explanation of the whys and
wherefores of this lovely site with their pristine
gardens I simply recommend you make a visit and wonder
as we did, you won't be disappointed!
The following morning our breath visible in the cool
Rajasthani air we set of for the bird sanctuary our
reason for being here.
Accompanied by our able guide Amarchand. He proved to
be worth every paise and we had a fulfilling 4 hours
under his expert guidance. We spotted many birds,
spoonbills, geese, cranes, kingfishers, eagles a
delight for any avid birdwatcher despite the lack of
water due to the bad monsoon! Add to this the samber
deer, antelope, tortoises and pythons, it made for a
special day. So much so we planned another foray in
two days time!
The next day was an obligatory washing/rest day and
with the rupees running low we were in need of a
change facility. So we made a trip into Bharatpur
town.
Bharatpur is a pretty standard Indian town of half
built houses, rickshaws and mass humanity. After
changing money in the antiquated State Bank (a process
that took only an hour!), we rushed back to the
relative tranquillity of the Park View garden and
spent the rest of the day laughing and joking with
A.K., "uncle" and the staff.
Early the next day we were once again on our bikes,
headed for the bird sanctuary. We were curious if we
would be as lucky with our sightings without a guide.
Within 5 minutes we had our answer. Only fifty metres
from us was a herd of grazing spotted deer being
slowly circled by 4 seemingly uninterested jackals.
This set the tone for the day. During the course of
the day we were rewarded with sightings of several
species of owl, two or three different eagles,
watersnakes, monkeys, antelope and a sleeping
nightjar.
We felt like extra's in a David Attenborough film !
We left the park, again very satisfied.
The following day, showered and breakfasted, it was
time to say our goodbyes to A.K. and the boys.
We had a great time at the Park View and if you should
pass this way, we highly recommend a stay with A.K., a
truly hospitable, friendly host.
We shouldered our packs and set off to find the bus
for Agra, where we would catch the train for Jhansi,
on our way to Orchha, our next stop.
Two hours later we were comfortably seated on the
Nizamudin/Bhubaneswhar express, streaming through the
monsoon eroded ravines, made famous in the book the
Bandit Queen, destination Jhansi.
Some four hours later, after an uneventful journey, we
stepped out of the rickshaw into the magical world of
Orchha.
Built on the banks of the Betwa river, Orchha
positively bristles with monuments. It is pleasing to
the eye and invites exploration. This, however, would
have to wait for the dawn of another day. Travel in
India is tiring and we were in need of a meal, shower
and a bed.
As is usual for me in a new place, I was awake before
sunrise and eating breakfast by 7.30 am.
The hub of life in Orchha centres on the square and
the little bazaar between the temple and the fort.
Whilst eating breakfast, we commented on how nice it
was to be, once again, in a small village.
The flower sellers, with their beautiful garlands for
the faithful, chai wallahs, wisened old women selling
fruits and spun sugar from stalls balanced on their
proud heads. The stray dogs rummaging for crumbs,
sweets piled in pyramids, whilst the proprietors do
their best to hold back the invasion of flies.
Shopkeepers poised like wicket keepers hawking their
wares in one long syllabil as you pass.
And of course the cows, nonchalantly wondering around,
looking for some stray vegetation, or indeed a tasty
piece of cardboard.
This scene, repeated all over India, in her vast
collection of villages, represents for us "real
India".
After eating and acquainting ourselves with the local
urchins, we set of for a bit of exploration, naturally
gravitating to the massive fort, towering over Orchha.
We paid our thirty rupees (a bargain, as it includes
all the things to see in Orchha), and took a step back
in time. The fort, save for a couple of other
tourists, was deserted. We had free reign to wander at
will, a delight in India.
Wandering through the halls and dark stairways, we
were transported to a time where pomp and laviscious
living were the order of the day.
The wonderful courtyard where the raja could hold
audience with his subjects from on high in the
magnificent throne room. Or watch a show of musicians
and dancing girls. The shady halls for banqueting, the
incredible baths and the bedrooms, decorated with
scenes from the Vedas and the day to day life of a
rajah.
Evidence of a lifestyle now vanquished from India and
the rest of the world.
As well as the ambience, the ancient fort offers great
views of the river, the village and the protruding
chatris and temples.
During the next few days we would visit them all. But
having decided to soak up Orchha with a stay of ten
days, enabling us to catch the festival of the wedding
of Rama, we decided that slowly ,slowly was the best
approach. So the following day we set off for a walk
along the churning rapids of the Betwa River. Crossing
the ancient stone bridge, we headed south. The river,
flanked by forest on one side and the royal chatris on
the other made for great walking. It being Sunday we
were joined by picnicking families from Jhansi. After
an hour or two's walking, it was time to sit down and
rest our feet in the cool waters of the Betwa. We
returned to the village where we had a good meal and
retired to bed.
In between our forays to the beautiful monuments of Orchha, our nights
were spent quaffing chai with other backpackers. One of the great points about
travel in general is the vast array of people you meet from all sorts of backgrounds. Stricking up a conversation never poses a problem, as a feeling of " we're all in this together" prevails. Swopping stories and info with other people on the road is a major source of entertainment on any trip and India supplies an almost limitless source of anecdotes!
Many a pleasant night is frittered away in good company.
This invariably takes place in a local dhaba or restaurant, while India goes on around you.
Orchha, being a small place, gives you feeling that a night spent sitting around in the restaurants in the little bazaar attunes you to life there.
The restraunteurs exchanging jokes, insults and general comment on everything in their line of sight.
Sweets being made in pungent cauldrons and being processed by small boys, into all manner of shapes and forms.
Sadhus demanding khana, dogs protecting their benefactors, the occasional fight, life in small town India!
The bartering system amongst businessmen in India is amazing; change, samosas, milk, flower, curd, salt pans all change hands between the various traders. In Orchha even the menu seemed to be communal property! With the kitchen boys flitting from restaurant to restaurant with the tattered menu, truly India!Although this often leads to confusion asas it seemed none of the chefs had the wherewithal to produce all the items on the menu. Still enquiring around usually produced the required results as between the 6 or 7 seven dhabas they had the whole menu covered.
" Our " dhaba was the Neelkanth where we spent many wonderful hours chatting and fooling around with the owner Pintoo and the two scallywags Ramkumar and his sibling Laltha .
The food was delicious and I attained the status of "Guru" after showing Pintoo how to make hutspot, a Dutch dish of potatoes, carrots and onions. A title I may never again aspire to!
Asides the countryside and the architecture, a big draw in Orchha are it's wonderful people. Without the overexposure to tourism apparent in some other places on the "pancake trail", there remains a certain charming simplicity that brings out the best in us, as we wonder through this little bit of heaven. We hope it stays like this and Orchha doesn't go the way of places like Puskhar and McCloudganj, where the dollar eventually won the day.
We have never been people for trying to keep secrets. After all, tourism isn't all negative and in some ways it has a positive impact for local people. So please come, but try to leave your western expectations behind for just a day or two. We had a lovely two weeks here, in this sleepy little town and we recommend it to anyone looking for a break from frenetic India.
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Namaste
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Site last updated
12-04-2007
